Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive list of global cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," according to a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
